Thursday, April 5th, Day 25, Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb!
Up at 5:30am as I felt rested, having turned out the light at just after 11:00pm. Upstairs, silently, leaving the Wind Tunnel Workers to themselves, to make a strong cup of java and then work on the Infernal Diaries with all quiet around me, no jeering criticism, churlish barbs, complete lack of understanding for my magnum opus! Beavered away until 6:45am when Cora Lee appeared. She was off to the hot tub and sauna, limbering up for a full day of shopping. Flamin' surfaced a few minutes later and made for the StairMaster in the gym. Sarge was last up and he made a cup of tea and ate an apple while I finished off my yogurt and apple and made ready to leave. Initially, he wanted to walk to the BridgeClimb at 3 Cumberland Street, The Rocks, but decided we might as well buy a day pass, ($10), on the Sydney Monorail as the stop nearest to us, Convention Centre, was but two minutes away. We took it to City Centre and then walked for about twenty minutes, enjoying the busy streets, filled with people hurrying to work.
We arrived at the Bridge Climb centre, occupying a significant, underground part of the approach to the Harbour Bridge itself, at just before 9:00am and forked over $208 each for the 9:15am, three and a half hour climb. Had a chance to scope obligatory souvenir shop while Sarge had a muffin. At 9:10am we climbed a flight of stairs to wait in a reception area and watched a video of what we were soon to experience, from pre-climb orientation to shots from the top of the bridge. Actually, quite a good introduction to the entire process, from clothing one would wear and how everyone would be kitted out to safety procedures, etc. Basic premise is that nobody is allowed to carry anything, from watches to money to hoop earrings, (studs are permissible), to cameras to Kleenex to bobby pins, as anything which falls to road surface might interfere with the cars passing below.
At 9:15am young man, (From Wakefield, in Yorkshire. I recognized his accent and asked if he was from Huddersfield.) He took our tickets and fourteen of us began the orientation process proper. While we filled out a disclaimer we each took a breathalyzer test, as Climb organization, (private company, nothing to do with Bridge Authority), obviously doesn't want anybody all jacked up on goofballs! With more than military precision, we stood in a circle, on dots on the floor and rotated, counter-clockwise, to be handed our jumpsuits. Next we went into another area to change in cubicles, like ones in clothing stores, and then we put all our possessions in lockers, placing the key, on a loop, around our necks. (I had wondered if I would be allowed to wear my Crocs on climb so I had borrowed Sarge's sneakers, before we left hotel as he had planned to wear his heavy duty beach sandals. As things turned out, he couldn't wear his foot gear, regulations stipulate closed footwear, and he had to put on a pair of sneakers provided by attendant! He wasn't at all unhappy with comfort and fit, by the way, Dear Reader
Once jumpsuited, (It was suggested that we wear only underwear as it was 22C and climbing, relative humidity 62%, slight breeze, 2kph), we were handed over to our Team Leader, a friendly young woman, (Neither Sarge nor I can, for the life of us remember her name.), and she took us into another area where we stood around a metal circle. I was elected guinea pig and she showed rest how to put on the safety belt which had a nifty mechanism on a small, covered line that would attach to the continuous security cable which runs the entire length of the walk/climb. Next to another station where we stood in single file while we received a radio and headset, all clipped to hooks on either the belt or the jumpsuit. Once this was done to last area where we received a cloth handkerchief, on an elastic to place around one wrist, wrapped and tucked under cuff. this was to be used for wiping one's forehead or to cool oneself after soaking it in one of r the water fountains along the way. Last two bits of gear were holders for glasses/sunglasses and one for our complimentary Climb baseball cap.
Fully loaded we were then taken to the Climb Simulator, a set of stairs that would allow us to familiarize ourselves with the procedure we would follow when on the bridge itself. Not all that difficult but it did take a little bit of getting used to walking and climbing, attached to the cable. Every metre, sometimes more, sometimes less, the tether mechanism passes over a joint, usually where the safety cable is attached to some part of the bridge structure, and unless the "teeth" in the tether ball, about the size of a fist and a kilo in weight, are properly aligned, you cannot move forward until you realign the ball. This soon becomes a reflex action but first chap up the stairs did exactly what he was not supposed to do, his companions shouting instructions below the raised platform.
When we all had completed the walkthrough we stopped at a fountain to soak our kerchiefs, (Sarge spit on the very idea!), and a drink before we entered a tunnel, cut out of the original foundation, (Cement which was removed by bore has been archived should it be decided that tunnel is be closed at some future date.), which led directly onto the first level of the bridge which we would traverse. Our Climb Leader had us face the wall and put our hands above our heads, doing a final check to make sure all our gear was secured. That done, the climb began, shortly after 10:00am. Sarge was behind me and last member of group, Climb Leader at the front.
First walkway, of narrow wooden planking, took us towards the first support pillar, on the east side of the bridge, constructed of blue granite, each massive block taking about a week and a half to dress, to make it ready for installation. Climb Leader kept up a running commentary, telling us, via our headsets, about the history of the bridge's construction as well as describing the buildings, myriad bodies of water that make up Sydney Harbour and spectacular views we could see at the various stages of the climb and from different vantage points. At this point, I should say that although we were probably about a 100' above sea level, I didn't really feel at all fazed by the straight drop on either side of the walkway. On each side there were handrails, a little over waist high so we were virtually enclosed and from this point onward I never really ever had a moment's concern about the climb. Not that I have a deathly fear of heights but I must say that climbing the Eiffel Tower in October of 2010, with Flamin' and Sarge, I experienced some trepidation, due to the increasingly dizzying height, as we made our way into the sky, at times.
In this same vein, when I climbed to the top of Uluru, (Ayer's Rock), in 2003, (issues of political correctness aside), the path one takes from the base of this remarkable monolith is up a fairly steep slope with but a rope, on stanchions, up the middle of the walkway. This path is not all that wide, probably two or three metres on either side of the rope. However, should one stumble and fall or otherwise lose one's balance and roll over the edge there is nothing but a sheer drop. Depending on where an individual happens to be on this section of the climb, (no Climb Leaders here, no safety lines), death or severe injury is the likely result. Apparently a Japanese tourist fell to his death a few years before I made the climb. His hat blew off and he went to retrieve it, near the edge, and toppled over. I kept very close to the rope railing and had my hand loosely around it at all times, until past the "Killing Zone". In my experience, many other climbers, particularly on the descent, walked down, some even at a slight jog, never bothering themselves with the security line. Again, even a slight misstep and the consequences would likely be dire.
Taking a temporary walkway that had been constructed to allow climbers to bypass some ongoing, major maintenance to the under structure closest to the south end of the bridge, we climbed some stairs, about a story or so, to stop at the last water fountain before one directly opposite, on the other side of the bridge, one we wouldn't pass until we finished our descent. We then clambered under some piping, (Sarge had to really duck down to gain clearance), through a narrow passageway paralleling the broad face of the aforementioned pilar, to reach a small platform where two other Climb employees were stationed, at the bottom of four sets of stairs that would take us to the point where we would gain access to the eastern outer span.
Woman in front of me, mother with her two teenage daughters, on school hols, confessed that she really did have a fear of heights, so Sarge and I told her that she would be fine and we chatted about her farm, (three or four thousand acres with both sheep, (2,000 or so, I think), and cattle, not far from Yass, a pretty country town we had driven through en route to Canberra), in part to get to know her but more to keep her mind off the steep ladder climb ahead. Each climber had to wait until the person ahead had reached the top of the ladder before being allowed to follow.
Although climbing the ladders is probably the most challenging part of the entire climb, even this aspect is not terribly difficult or unnerving. The ladders are at such a steep incline that one's face is almost literally level with the steps above which block most of the open space below. Once up the four ladders, you emerge onto a small patio-like rectangle, the walkway down the centre of the outer span curving up towards the peak. Once here, one could be on the balcony of any high rise as you are bracketed by handrails, the width of the span overhanging the aerial "sidewalk" by a foot, if not more, on either side. In fact, you cannot see down below, except through the massive and certainly impressive cross braces. At any rate, at this stage one of the main points of the climb is to begin to enjoy the stunning views of the city, the harbour and it's various bays and inlets.
Probably took about twenty minutes to make a leisurely ascent to the top, listening all the while to our Climb Leader or chatting with fellow chain gangers. Of course, we were afforded a stunning view of the Opera House with its iconic soaring roof. Apparently if one were able to place another Opera House on top of the existing one the combined height would equal the highest point on the Harbour Bridge. Interestingly enough, however, the Opera House weighs three times as much as the Harbour Bridge.
While those ahead of us posed, with their climbing companions, for various shots, (available later, of course, for more cash, $25 for first picture, $10 for each subsequent picture of choice. Complimentary group photo for every climber. That plus a "free" Climb baseball cap was the extent of our loot!), taken by our intrepid Climb Leader, (She had a carabiniere attached to her belt which she used to latch/unlatch to/from another secure cable running along the opposite handrail to the one we were using whenever necessary to by-pass the group or an individual.), Sarge and I took in the 360 degrees worth of view and marveled, in sheer wonderment, at the technical engineering feat of the structure, its aesthetics, its grace and harmony never lost on those who gaze upon its gargantuan proportions, in fact, the very observation enhanced by the fact of seeing it from within the organic structure of the colossal struts and its six million rivets.
Finally it was time for the aforementioned group shot, with obligatory "You are amazing", congratulations from the Climb Leader, kindergarten children receiving their gold stars as we were shutterbugged, making forced yells of exhilaration as we posed in staged positions, arms outstretched and upraised in victory, The Conquerors of The Harbour Bridge. The hoopla over, the descent down the western span was most pleasant as we scoped Darling Harbour and the bays and islands near the mouth of the Paramatta River. Neither Sarge nor I felt it was the least bit physically demanding and were not dripping with perspiration or in need of water. Slight breeze was refreshingly cooling and demands of stair climb were so slight that one was never near struggling to catch one's breath. All in all, an interesting, almost leisurely walk, if not in the park, then in the sky.
Back at base camp, we de-kitted ourselves, filled out a short feed-back questionnaire, Both of us indicated that the cost was exorbitant, (We would have been pleased to pay $100 without batting an eye.), but were certainly happy to have had the experience. Thanked our Climb Leader as she handed us our group photo and left many of our climbing companions at the picture counter. Quite well marketed as there are three large screen monitors behind the pick-up counter looping through the pictures taken at different spots on the climb. Saw the ones of Sarge and myself and two or three of them were good shots but Sarge dragged me away before I could succumb to splurging.
Short walk to the Australian Hotel, (bar there is apparently the oldes one in the country), where we had arranged to meet The Sisterhood. Most of the tables, inside and out, were already reserved for lunch, (Sarge had suggested reserving one the day before but Flamin' had talked him out of so doing!), so I ordered a cappuccino and Sarge a beer. After a few minutes we found a table for two and The Goils appeared. Sarge walked around for a bit an managed to intimidate other diners to give up a couple of chairs. We enjoyed a very pleasant lunch: gluten free pizzas available for F/CL while I had a Caesar with chorizo. WHen it arrived it was topped with chicken so I mentioned this to waiter and he brought along the sausage shortly so I had an extra topping on the hous!
After our tasty meal, F/S headed to Circular Quay to catch the ferry to Manly. Coriandre had decided to find a place to have her hair cut and I offered to pick up her shoe. I had taken it to a repair shop the day before and it was to be ready after 1:00pm. By this time it was close to 3:00pm so I left her on George Street, not far from The Rocks, and I hopped on the Monorail, back at City Centre to ride it along its one-way loop, past our stop, Convention Centre, to World Square. Picked up her shoe and then back on Monorail, enjoying watching the city pass by my window. Bought ten postcards of Sydney at my stop, (10 for $4, best deal we'd ever seen since trip began), and returned to our condo.
Once there I'd dropped off the shopping bag Flamin' had asked me to mule back to hotel so she wouldn't have to carry it to Manly and back, (I'm a tad conflicted about aiding and abetting a shopping addiction, Dear Reader!), as well as a fairly large cardboard box Cora Lee had picked up at a Post Office she'd passed that morning. It was to be filled with clothing no longer wanted on trip, plus certain other more recent acquisitions and mailed back home from Brisbane. The convoluted logic of this considerable expense fully escapes me, yet I dared not voice any opinion on this matter, having learned from bitter experience that I simply don't understand the need to bring more clothes and shoes that you could possibly need, buy more of same en route, and then not be able to close the zipper on any of your bags.
Unburdened, physically if not psychologically, I changed into my bathing suit and went for a glorious 1.5.(33) mile swim in the lap pool on the 1st Floor of the building. What a glorious find, particularly since I was only person using facility for most of my laps. Around 5:30pm a few youngsters started horsing around so I was pleased that I had almost finished my laps. I certainly didn't begrudge them their fun but it wasn't as enjoyable having to dodge them as I made my way from end to end. Pool itself was very attractively appointed, lovely dark green mosaic tile, wonderful, massive wooden beams, four or five down each side of pool, with similar beams overhead. The sort one sees in Vancouver, for example, in renovated warehouses in Yale Town and elsewhere, cut from old growth trees, I presume, when buildings of this sort were originally constructed. Quick foray into sauna to do some crunches and stretches and then
back to room to shower and change.
Friend Tim was to join us for drinks before dinner and he had said that he would arrive around 5:30pm. Coriandre was back, beautifully coiffed by 5:15pm and I set out some grapes, cheese and crackers while we waited for Tiptoe and F/S to appear. I digitated while Cora Lee watched the news and we both sipped the Warrabilla, 2008 Reserve Marsanne, 14.0%, we'd become so enamoured of since our recent visit to the winery. About 6:00pm the Manlyites returned with tales of the beach being closed due to incredibly high surf. Nevertheless, they enjoyed the outing and Sarge opened a Warrabilla, 2010 Reserve Riesling,11.5%, as the Marsanne had mysteriously disappeared. When Tiptoe hadn't called by 6:45pm I called him and he apologized for being late but he'd had an extremely hectic day at work, it being the Thursday before the Easter Long weekend, and he begged off, as he was, in his words, "shattered!" We made arrangements to meet on the morrow when he would deliver the bags we had left with him before we flew to Melbourne. After I hung up we all settled in the living room and shared the experiences of our different afternoons. This necessitated the opening of
a Warrabila, 2009 Cleanskins Durif, 15.5%, and we somehow managed to polish it off before making for Olivo, once again. We'd enjoyed the food and Isabella so much we thought we'd return. The night before she had told us she would be working that evening and she welcomed us when we walked into the restaurant, showing us to a secluded table. It was far busier than the evening before, again, the start of the long weekend, and she apologized for not being able to spend as much time with us. We understood, of course, and assured her of this. We proceeded to order, each of us trying something we'd not had before. I decided to try a slightly different rocket salad and the veal dish. Both were delicious and everyone else was similarly pleased with their food. Isabel insisted on bringing more complimentary glasses of wine but since we'd had plenty, each couple shared a second glass each.
More than satisfied with the delicious cusine, we asked for our bill and when Isabel brought it she gave us her email address as she was very keen to keep in touch. We were delighted that she felt this way, (I was going to ask her for it anyway as I wanted to send her some of the pictures I taken.), so we thanked her once more for her charming, efficient service, embraced and waved goodbye. As we strolled along the water's edge, Flamin' and Sarge decided to go for a bit of a stroll. A band was playing in a pub across the way and they thought that they'd take a look at the scene. Cora Lee was happy to return to the condo to put some ice on her foot and I knew the Diaries were desperately seeking my presence so we left The Youngsters to explore Cockle Bay by night and we walked home.
Was close to 10:30pm by the time we were back and after I sent a few messages I felt like reading rather than writing. Cora Lee had said goodnight after watching a bit of TV and was abed with her book by the time I had brushed and flossed. LOng day with Bridge Climb and swim so I managed but one chapter of Truth before I started to nod off, Cora Lee dong much the same. We whispered sweet nothings to each other and turned off our bedside lamps. Think I heard Flamin' and Sarge come downstairs but not sure if it was them or a dream about Inspector Villani and his colleagues.
To be continued...
Hi D, Sounds lovely, I'm sitting in the island inn breakfast area with a cat beside pawing at me for a second breakfast, waiting for Hydro to cut the power then to take G and G to airport and show Cody around Vancouver for the rest of the day. It is a very nice day today, sun is shining, Robins singing, so we are lucky as it rained all yesterday!!! Love to Tim and the rest of your gang. xx
From George! Emmet and Ryan!!
The Force!Vienna to Bratislava:
Hello again,
We had a nice train ride from Prague to Vienna. We took the metro system to
Nesrtoyplaz, and with the aid of Eric - the human GPS - found our hotel.
Wandered around the neighbourhood after checking in, and found a Billa grocery
store. On John's recommendation, we bought some Gruner Vertliner, a Zweigelt,
and a Blaufrankisch - all Austrian wines. They were all good, but the
Blaufrankisch was great!!!
The next day we bought transit passes and headed into the city
centre. It being
a Sunday, Mass was on at all the churches, and we sat in on bits in
two different
ones. Then it was off to the Museum district, where we made a point of seeing
the works of Gustav Klimnt, one of John's favourites. We also saw the
Parliament
and the Rathaus.
On Monday, we went to the Schonnbrunn Palace, where there was an Easter
Fair. Later, we went to the Opera House. Jo-Anne wanted to buy tickets -
until she saw the price!!!!!!! We went to the famous Sacher Hotel and got
some of the original Sacher torte (Jo-Anne is glad she doesn't live here -
it is a temptation she could not avoid.)
Tuesday we packed up, went to the train station, and headed to
Bratislava. Bratislava is a small place, quite compact and easy to
navigate (with an Eric). After checking in, we wandered around the old
town, found a place to eat (Slovak food), and headed back to the hotel.
On the way, I saw something I have never seen before - a line up to
get into church. No, it was not tourists going to a special site.
It was locals going to an evening service - SRO!!!
Holy Week means something in these parts.
Wednesday was time to head to Budapest.
--Bye for now
Manley Beach 
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